Four days with winds from the north followed by four days with winds from the south. This used to be a fairly common weather pattern in my experience for the NSW East coast, which we took advantage of in many cruises over the years.

But this is very different from the weather we have received recently and this made me ponder what it would be like cruising this coast in today’s changed conditions. Just then, some old friends, Steven and Kathryn Iles rang and said that they’d like a chat because they were about to embark on a cruise to Grafton and back in a boat almost the same as ours and wanted to know if we would share our experiences with them.
Well sharing experiences is an essential part of cruising in our book so naturally we did and insisted that they returned the compliment on their return from a very successful cruise despite the vagaries of the current weather patterns. Here is what they told us…

Their boat, Sierra, is a Jarkan 925, locally designed and built in 1986 and sister ship to Gun Runner, which features in the Hobart each year. They are both experienced sailors including skiffs and yachts. Kathryn did her first trip to Hobart with her dad, Doug Brooker, in the family yacht when she was 8 years old, which was followed by a near Pacific cruise four years later. Having owned Sierra for a few years but now emancipated by retirement, this was going to be their first long cruise in their own boat. Unlike many cruisers, at this stage they do not have AIS or an auto helm, but keeping two hourly watches steering did not prove onerous and commercial traffic wasn’t a problem. They did invest in a 2.3m inflatable dinghy and small outboard, which fitted forward on the boat very conveniently and proved its worth carrying stores on many occasions. To keep track of the weather they referred to the usual BOM sites but found the European weather model (ECMWF) on Windy.com and PredictWind very reliable. Also used they believe by Roger Badham. They used a Samsung tablet powered from a 12v plug with C-Map and Navionics, both of which seemed to update regularly, which complemented their paper charts. A handheld GPS and handheld compass completed their navigation equipment.

They cruised Pittwater for six days at the end of April 2023 settling into the boat and awaiting a weather window for a direct sail to Port Stephens, starting in the dark of a very early morning to ensure a daylight arrival in Port Stephens. Here they continued past Nelson Bay and enjoyed a good calm anchorage for a few days in Salamander Bay. Crossing bars was one of their concerns for the trip but the westerlies gave them a calm exit from Port Stephens and Foster/Tuncurry was its usual kind self. It was the strength of the current in the narrow channel there that was a surprise to them and they paid extra attention when anchoring. With good weather still prevailing it was off the next
day to Laurieton, where local attractions and unfavourable weather entertained them for eight days. Anchored off the United Services Club, this gave them a great opportunity to enjoy what Laurieton had to offer, such as the showers at the club (a change from their solar shower), the quaint cinema, the friendliness of the locals and a
hike up North Brother Mountain, where this magnificent photo was taken.

(Ed. Unfortunately they didn’t get to see the museum, which is worth a visit). Whilst in Laurieton, they took a bus ride to Port Macquarie to upgrade their 100W solar panel, which had proved wanting when asked to,power the fridge on a long-term basis, to a 200W solar blanket, which has proved very effective.

May 11th saw them at sea for their first over-nighter for the 80+ miles to Coffs. As in other legs of the voyage sea life in the form of whales and dolphins provided entertainment and excitement as some of them took great interest in Sierra. The whales’ curiosity was fascinating. The yachts moored out in the outer harbour at Coffs were doing a good bit of rock and rolling, so Steven and Kathryn took refuge in the marina and caught up on sleep, before pushing on to the Clarence River. They arrived on 15th via the southern entrance, not without some concern. Time had got on a bit and around 1600 visibility was limited by heavy rain and the usual waves were breaking on the bar to the north.
However, they proceeded without incident and anchored in the quite shallow Iluka fishing boat harbour. Here they followed recommendations and walked the World Heritage Coastal Rain Forest behind the sand dunes to the north, which is worth seeing and leads to a constructed platform with views along the coast.

Fully rested they mainly motored up river observing the mixture of industries along the banks including small ship repair/building yards and sugar cane farms before anchoring just past the sugar mill at Harwood. They negotiated a convenient opening time for the old bridge and then walked the 3km to an Alpaca farm amongst the sugar cane fields, which proved very interesting and educational. Proceeding further up-river, they arrived at Lawrence on 21st . Here the river goes through an S bend and they had been warned that deep water was sometimes difficult to find as the river bottom changes with the seasons. In this case there had been major flooding recently, so they sought advice from a deep draughted yacht, who provided the attached mud map of a way through the shallows.
However, things got a bit shallow at one stage, so it would be advisable to get further local up-to-date advice if following in their wake.

Ulmarra proved an intriguing place but also a near disaster when returning after dark to the dinghy moored at a wharf. The ramp and the pontoon are at an oblique angle to one another and in the dark it proved very easy to walk right off it and into the water, which Kathryn managed to do, fortunately with no damage but a soggy trip back to the boat to change.
The boats at Ulmarra are moored on the far side of the river presumably to stay out of the main channel and tidal flow, but as in other parts of the river the centre of the river is shallower than the sides. Hence the need for a dinghy ride. At other places, the floating pontoon made dinghy tie-up very easy.

Grafton was the next stop and a good opportunity to stock up on groceries. The ‘Girl Guide’ wharf mentioned in Lucas was in poor repair since the recent floods, but landing was easy via the beach off the sailing club, and there was a new pontoon at South Grafton. In Grafton, they enjoyed a historical walking tour, following a map from the tourist information centre, and a dinghy trip to Susan Island which was once used for cattle grazing and is now in the process of being regenerated with native trees. With its low bridge, Grafton was the turning point of the journey, so it was now travelling with the current back down river with its flat meadows either side and grazing cows.

After stopping at the yacht-person friendly pub at Brushgrove, the 29th saw them tying alongside the very convenient wharf at Maclean, where, besides being a delightful little village with a Scottish heritage, there is water, sullage pumpout and a supermarket at the wharf ideal for restocking. Sometimes the staff even wheel your trolley down to the wharf for you! Through the old and magnificent new bridge to Yamba, where they enjoyed a visit to
another classic old cinema and a swim at the surf beach. Then it was back across the river to Iluka before setting off for a brief stop at Coffs. Exiting the Clarence proved interesting. They had been advised by “someone” local that due to the flooding, only the northern channel should be used. This is a bit inconvenient when travelling south, involving several additional miles around the outside of the extensive bar before proceeding south, so they went out onto the breakwater to observe it for themselves.

The wash from the waves breaking on the bar made the northern channel look most uncomfortable and whilst they were watching four commercial fishing boats departed the river. One went out via the north and three went out via the southern channel, so they thought they’d do the same. Now it’s not always wise to follow fishing boats, because they know things that we don’t but in this case it all worked out okay.

It was a nice run down the inside of the Solitary Islands except the jib fuller refused to unfurl. A solution wasn’t immediately obvious so out came the trusty spinnaker (see photo), which did the job brilliantly. The problem with the furler was easily rectified later when a restriction in the top swivel was solved with a squirt of WD40 (recommended in the Hood user manual!)

7th June was at sea en route to Laurieton, followed by stops at Forster and Port Stephens, then back to Americas Bay on 17th . Obviously, they had enjoyed living and cruising on the boat so much they were not hurrying to get back to their mooring at Bayview, because they “wound down” with a tour of all the popular spots in the Hawkesbury and Cowan Creek for another week, presumably enjoying having these places mid-week to themselves for a change!
They returned grateful to all the people who made them welcome along the way. People who offered them lifts, or to take them shopping or join them for a game of Bocce at Laurieton or advice on what to see locally. In particular to Marine Rescue with whom they were able to log on and off for each passage via the app. They could have done with fewer of the light westerlies they endured together with the consequent motoring. Steven would also have liked to have had less rain during his watches. Kathryn had none! Particularly at night they used 5 layers of clothes and being prone to some seasickness, they both took Kwells at the start of each leg with no undue side effects or bad sea sickness. Kathryn made up zip-lock bags of nibbles to sustain them on their watches and water bottles with just a drop of cordial in them. A hot drink was most restorative after two hours on the helm accompanied by Spotify via their Oppo phones and Telstra network. Their collapsible trolley was very useful when collecting fuel. One purchase of fuel was discovered to have some waxy substance in it. The problem was obviated, however, as the fuel filter had been set up so that the fuel was fed initially to the top of the filter (where any impurities will block it) and drawn off the bottom before going to the secondary filter. It was changed so that the fuel now goes into the top but down an internal tube to the bottom, where it rises through the filter leaving any impurities behind and is drawn off at the top to go to the secondary filter.

The things that Kathryn most welcomed on return, after of course family and friends, were a continuous hot shower and an electric blanket! They are already planning their next trip north, this time to Queensland.

(Ed.) So, despite our changed weather patterns, it still seems possible to enjoy a pleasant cruise along our coast.  Steven and Katheryn appear to have spent no more time weather bound than we have in the past in our 4 and 4 weather pattern and like many cruisers they enjoyed the journey and not just the destination. Enjoy Queensland next year!

Glynne Attersall
SV Simply Irresistible

or

What do you think you should do if a fire starts on your yacht and your god has abandoned you?

Did you know that 90% of fires start in the engine room, usually due to faulty or corroded electrical wiring – it only takes one spark!

Did you know that fire expands at the rate of 100% every 60 seconds!

So what do these two important bits of information tell you? …………they tell me that I don’t have much time to put out the fire, that is if I can, and if I can’t, what other steps should i be taking whilst I’m trying to put out the fire?

I’m not going to talk about the types of fires as there are up to seven or more fire categories, it is sufficient for me tonight to confine my talk to fires categorised a, b and c as these are the fires for which we have fire fighting equipment on our yachts, such as c0₂ fire extinguishers, fire blankets and water.  Some of you might have taken the extra precaution and acquired additional fire fighting or fire suppressing equipment and there are many automated fire suppressing D.I.Y. Systems that you can install for as little as $200.00 upwards in your yacht.  A simple smoke alarm may keep you safe at night when you are asleep, and it’s simple to install.

I also will not talk about the various fire fighting equipment on the market as those matters are governed by the rules of racing and government, however i will talk to you about how to use all the readily available “tools” on your yacht in the event that a fire flares up on your yacht.

So here we go:

Given that you literally have only a few seconds to make a decision as to whether you can or cannot put out or suppress the fire you should also take the necessary steps to abandon ship, just in case you can’t put out the fire or the yacht blows up!....... And they do, without warning!

I THINK YOU MUST DO BOTH.

Both actions should be taken simultaneously by instructing your crew what to do, you, the skipper should remain in command at all times to coordinate matters, as well as steer the yacht.  You can’t do everything so delegate to trusted, experienced crew specific tasks, unless you’re solo, then you’re on your own to do what you can.

These are the steps I suggest that you implement immediately:

1. Appoint one or more experienced crew member to locate the fire extinguishers and the source of the fire and try to put it out using the P.A.S.S. method.
2. Appoint other experienced crew members to prepare to abandon ship by:
   1. Sending out a mayday signal continuously
   2. Activate your EPIRB
   3. Issue life jackets to all and a water bottle if possible
   4. Prepare or find the grab-bag, ensure that it has a medical kit, flares, hand bearing compass etc
   5. Prepare the life raft for launching, and have life rings ready to be used
   6. Secure torches and knives and food for as many crew as possible.
3. Appoint remaining crew members to fill buckets with sea-water as they might be able to assist in putting out the fire or douse flames on crew, clothing etc.  REMEMBER: water will not put out an electrical fire but will put out a methylated spirit stove fire.  Unfortunately water will spread all other fuel based fires.
4. Turn off your engine, continuing to run the engine may damage it.  (you will need it later if you successfully put out the fire).  Remember it may be the principle cause of the fire.
5. SWITCH OFF ALL BATTERIES at the master switch.  this will stop an electrical fire receiving further energy to keep it going, BUT WON’T PUT OUT THE FIRE.  This is where water can be used.
6. Turn off petrol or diesel fuel at the tank or anywhere else were there will be no leakage of fuel into the bilge.
7. Turn off all gas bottles at the bottle.
8. Any spare crew should be deployed to assist the trained crew to attack the fire from the forehead entry hatch or the cockpit (do not let crew to stay down below without an escape route, as the fumes might kill them).

The PASS system

P     =     PULL THE PIN

A     =     AIM AT THE BASE OF THE FIRE

S     =     SQUEEZE THE TRIGGER

S     =     SWEEP SIDE TO SIDE AIMING AT THE BASE OF THE FIRE

Well, there you have it.  These 8 steps have to be initiated and hopefully executed within 60 seconds, if you don’t, chances are you will have to abandon ship.

If you have brought the fire under control, don’t stop, keep at it until there is no heat, smoke or flames and look for damage to all areas and appliances.  Fibreglass catches on fire at 260°C, that’s not much heat.  Now is the time to pour water on the damaged areas to ensure you have extinguished the fire.

Do not start the engine, this may have been the cause of the fire, besides to do so you will have to switch on the batteries and fuel, this could resurrect the fire again!  Double check these items and be ready to switch them off if a fire breaks out.

If you can sail, then that is what you should be doing.  REMEMBER, IF THE ENGINE WAS RUNNING WHEN FIRE WAS DETECTED SHUT IT DOWN UNTIL IT IS SAFE TO START IT. 

The mayday signal should then be changed to “PAN” – or “SECURITE” depending on your circumstances.  Take note of where you are.

See how your crew are coping.  You will be amazed how some of them will be extremely distressed and not know what to do.

So what have you discovered so far?

Firstly, you cannot put out the fire and carry out the 8 steps i have outlined without engaging the help of your crew.  So FIRE DRILL PRACTICE with your permanent crew is a must.  Visitors should be allocated simple tasks as they will be unfamiliar with the boat and its equipment.  Permanent crew on the other hand should be familiar with the location of fire fighting and life saving equipment and how to use it.

I suggest that you make a diagram of the interior layout of your yacht showing where fire extinguishers, life jackets and grab bag are located and ensure that your crew read and understand it.   Also, show it to your visitors when they come on board.  Fire drill is not novel, it is a discipline that has to be practised, just as it is practised on commercial ships, airlines and commercial buildings, you too should get in to the habit.

I have had personal experience with fires on different yachts on three separate occasions.  The first one was due to a petrol engine carburettor leak, caused by engine vibrations and the second one (different yacht – but nevertheless a petrol engine) when the spark arrestor failed, due to verdigris build up, and finally on a diesel powered boat when the electrical wiring shorted on a 24v system during gale force seas, which caused a fire to start near the battery box, setting the electrical loom of the boat on fire.  On each occasion, I was able to act quickly, with the assistance of my crew and stop the fire………….. Without major damage.

Remember C0₂ fire extinguishers have a limited amount of fuel suppressant and range.  So use them properly, merely pointing the fire extinguisher at a fire will not put out the fire.  Learn the P.A.S.S. Protocol and teach your crew.  It’s your best chance to put out a fire using a fire extinguisher.

Remember, fire blankets are excellent for putting out cooking fires and for use as a shield if you need to get to the seat of the fire, they may also be useful if you abandon ship.  Carry as many extra ones as you can, they require no maintenance.  Once used, discard them as they are not reusable.

Above all, remember the best way to put out a fire on a yacht is by “PREVENTION”.  By that I mean that you have installed all the fire fighting/suppression equipment you can deploy and have trained yourself and each of your crew how to use it.

I forgot to mention, that you should store your aerosol cans such as WD40, fog horn, ether start, well away from the engine and cooking areas as they will explode once exposed to heat without warning.  Same applies to spare fuel containers.

Also, make sure you are fully insured for everything, boat, crew and property.  Fires are costly and fatal!

Lastly, I believe that the most important matter for you to consider, is to ensure that you have an in-line fuse in the positive cable between the battery and the main switch board.  (I suggest a ceramic enclosed type).  However, as you cannot have a fuse from the battery to the starter motor of your engine, it is essential that you are able to switch off all the batteries at the master or main switch, this is paramount.

The main or master switch should be located as close as possible to the companionway so that you don’t have to go below to turn it off.  Likewise, any fuel cock should be located similarly.  I note that most fuel cocks are located near the fuel tank, which in many yachts may be difficult to reach in the panic of a fire IF AT ALL.

Always assume that your fire will occur during the night when making your plans to install or locate your fire fighting equipment, EPIRBs torches, life jackets, life raft, water, you don’t get a second chance, so choose their location wisely.  Remember, your god has abandoned you.

by Alex Comino
S/V Bloodhound

On a Tour (mid May to mid June) of Western Canada and Alaska, in a few free hours, we visited the Maritime Museum of British Columbia in the city of Victoria, on the southern tip of Vancouver Island. Victoria is the Capital of British Columbia not Vancouver.

Whilst the exhibits were interesting, with information on the history of local Pirates and their Ships, we sighted the original restored “Tilikum”.

This vessel is a North American Indian canoe, hollowed out of a single solid red cedar log and has a 5 feet 6 inch beam and is about 36 feet long. It is a proper dugout canoe. The canoe was many years old when Voss acquired her. (No doubt well seasoned)

Voss modified this canoe by fitting an 8 inch by 3 inch external keel, to which was fastened 300 pounds weight of lead ballast and some internal framing. He also added two planks each side, to increase the freeboard by 7 inches, decked her over and fitted a cockpit and cabin and 3 short gaff rigged masts and a rudder. He added half a ton of internal ballast and four 100 pound weight sand bags as shifting ballast, to maintain good sailing trim.

On the 20^th May 1901, he set off from Victoria BC, with one crew member. He crossed the Pacific to Sydney Australia, had the vessel on exhibition in Manly Park, (probably Manly Oval) then crossed the Indian Ocean, rounded the Cape of Good Hope, crossed the Atlantic to Brazil and then continued onto London, England arriving after 3 years 3 months and 12 days, about the I^st September 1904.

This incredible voyage was accomplished by a very experienced seaman. It is expressed by some historians, that Voss went to sea at about sixteen years of age and obtained his Master’s Certificate at around 40 years of age. Following other given dates, he was probably about 51 years of age, when he set out in the “Tilikum” His one crew member changed several times during his long voyage. The first left after 3 months and a later crew member was lost overboard, in the south pacific. He was not tied in, which was one of Voss’s general safety procedures. As well as being a great seaman, Voss must have been a very tough human to survive such a long voyage.

Before his Tilikum” voyage, he sailed “Xora” a 35 foot 10 ton gaff rigged sloop, with two young crew, from Victoria, down the west coast of the US and Mexico to Cocos Island, in search of a gold treasure (not found) and then to Callao in Peru, South America.

In bad weather, which he experienced many times, Voss believed in heaving too first and then using a sea anchor (off the Bow) for small craft He describes his methods in detail in his conclusion, in his book. Even in large sailing ships he believed in heaving too. Crew should be attached (tied in) in the cockpit in small vessels. He favoured the use of small amounts of oil, discharged while hove too.

After his “Tilikum” voyage, he set sail in 1912 in the “Sea Queen” a 26 feet gaff rigged Yawl from Yokohama Japan. About 250 miles out, they were hit by a Typhoon, the worst weather Voss had ever encountered. The yacht suffered severe damage and was nearly sunk. They ventured into the Behring Sea in the “Sea Queen”, according to one historian.

The “Sea Queen” was built on the same lines as the “Sea Bird”, in which Mr T.F. Day, Editor of the American Yachting Magazine Rudder, sailed from New York to Rome. This design was hard chine and beamy. To digress, for those who may remember some of the yachts which raced with MHYC in the 1950’s, Max Barnet, a MHYC member, raced a yacht called “Sarong”. I believe “Sarong” was a Seabird design, rigged as a sloop and 26 feet long. My wife Helen once sailed with Max on “Sarong”. I raced as crew on another MHYC yacht and remember “Sarong” well. Looking at the photograph of “Sea Queen”, “Sarong” looked precisely like a sister ship.

Max one day walked into the office in Manly, where I worked, his navy blue polo necked jumper sprayed white with salt. He had just sailed “Sarong” from Broken Bay to Sydney in a strong westerly. Some memories.

Bill Humel